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VI Itinerary

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Your Vacation--a typical itinerary...

In this example, You will board at our Marina on St. Thomas (alternately, you may start from the BVI. After settling in with a welcoming Rum punch, you will be whisked away to your first stop at (B) St. John's Rockefeller, Caneel Bay Resort. Here you will take your tender ashore to enjoy a leisurely lunch enjoying the view from the converted Rum Mill restaurant which overlooks breathtaking Caneel Bay. After a visit to the Boutique, you'll head back out to your mother ship to head on over to (C) Jost Van Dyke.

 

Where St. Johns was luxurious and pristine, Jost is down Island Funky. Once ashore, you won't want to miss Foxy's Beach side restaurant. Foxy's Caribbean lilt accompanied by his ever-present guitar can be heard clear down the beach as you approach his somewhat thrown together restaurant. The roof is peppered with shirts, underwear and hats from visiting crews (Kind of gets you in the right frame of mind for what clothes are essential or not!). His home-made songs about all of his favorite places in America will delight you. (I'll bet he'll even have one about your home town if you ask.) 

Shaking the sand out of your shoes, you head back to your anchored Yacht in the harbor where your cook has prepared a sumptuous meal aboard, or where you barbecue under the stars. 

And then, after sunset, you drift off to your favorite area of the boat, perhaps up on the forward deck or net, to relax and watch the stars as you sip your evening cocktail. Your senses never so keen. The tree frogs sing you to sleep as you give in to the gentle rocking of the boat.

The next morning, you take a quick dip and enjoy a hearty breakfast as you head off to your next adventure. A short 35 min. motor trip over to Sandy Cay. Here, you'll ride the tender in to an exciting (hopefully not to exciting) beach landing. Then it's off through the scrub to the backside of the Island where you'll overlook the cliffs and breaking waves arriving from Africa. The adventurous will climb down the cliff to venture into the foaming surf below. Beach coaming is the order of the day, and I usually find some fan coral to cart home--I'm running out of places for where to put it though. But some others have their own idea of what to do on a glorious morning in the tropic sun on their own private beach... 

From here we ricochet off the North Coast of Tortola. Anchor for a quick dip in any of the numerous bays, or off one of the Islands just as we turn South again at the cut between the Islands headed for the anchorage at Marina Cay. This famous resort is now run by Pussers. Just across the stretch of water to the West, you can go into the harbor at Beef Island. From the dinghy dock, you're about a 10 minute walk from the airport where you can pick up or drop off guests if needed. You can also get supplies at the (fairly well supplied) beach store here.

Meanwhile, back at Marina Cay, the rest of the crew can take on water and visit the boutique. There's a fine restaurant on the Beach with an interesting picture story on the walls of the history of the Island. Wend your way up the path to the spectacular view offered at the hilltop bar. Enjoy views of Virgin Gorda to the South, and the highest peak in the BVI, on Tortola to the West. There's plenty of room to just kick back and relax, or get engaged in a rauquous discussion about the adventures of the day with voyagers coming back from other Islands, world travelers and whoever else has found this haven on this night.

Maybe this should really be called land to sea to land again--because now we're off to the famous baths--about a 2 hour sail. 

These massive granite boulders have created quiet pools to wade in. You'll experience suburb views as you climb among, over and around the boulders which seem to have spewed from the bowels of the Earth and settled into a haphazard, whimsical pattern leaning against each other as if for support against the wind and waves. Their surfaces  have been weathered smooth and the constant water assault has carved intricate swirls and paths on their exterior. Later, when you wade into the water with your snorkel gear-- from the sea side the shear rock sides host a variety of tropical fish and beautiful coral at their base, just steps off the beach. The tiny beach bar will take care of your thirst problems while you're ashore so you can travel light as you explore the beautiful bathes and luxuriate in their swirling sparkling clean iridescent pools scattered throughout the boulders. The faint of heart should take caution as occasionally in one outcropping or another you may come across a topless European who has a different view of sunning than most shy Americans. After a while, this too just seems a part of the local scene.

After lunch, we will head upwind to Gorda Sound. As soon as we round the next point of land we call ahead for dinner at the luxurious Biras Creek resort. This beautiful resort is perched on the rise separating the East and West hills of Gorda Sound. (Playboy Magazine once rated this restaurant one of the 10 best and romantic in the world.)

On the way in, you'll pass pristine beaches as you slide down the side of the entry reef admiring every color coral imaginable.

We'll pick up one of the gaily dancing  moorings in the cut off to the side of Saba rock and adjacent to the famous Bitter End Yacht Club resort. After freshening up with a cooling shower on deck, we head in for evening cocktails. If you have children or Grand Children aboard, you can arrange for them to stay and watch the family movie playing at the open beach hut movie screen tonight. After cocktails, it's off in the tender, the length of the Bay to the Biras Creek dock just as dark quietly descends. We'll take the gentle flowers.jpg (32997 bytes)hike up the stone path among the Orchids and Hibiscus to reach the deck where we overlook the bay and the last fading light of sunset.

Superb views. Superb cuisine. Fine wine. Dancing on the Veranda. Biras Creek has been listed as one of the top 10 resorts around the world by many reviewers. You'll come away enchanted. (Don't miss a walk down to the lighted pool which cantilevers out over the beach on the lower Caribbean side of the Island. Contemplate the "sting of pearl Islands" that stretch out before you all the way to South America. St Martin, St. Barts, Antigua, St. Vincent, Mustique, Bequia, the Tobago Cays--a lifetime of Islands to explore on future trips.


Tonight, you'll not want the A/C as the gentle trade winds push between the hill at Bitter End and Saba Rock flooding your cabin with fragrant, tropical breezes that make you pull the sheets up tight around your chin.

In the morning, a refreshing swim, or maybe you go up to the club at Biras Creek to jog around their manicured running/exercise path and have a light breakfast. Meanwhile, others in your crew might rent a couple of Hobie cats and have an impromptu race around the moored boats in the harbor. Whatever you decide to do, everyone meets back at the boat for the two hour sail across to the fearsome, dreaded ANEGADA.

We always post a quarter on the cabin top in the cockpit to be won by the first person to spot Anegada. You see, where the other Islands are relatively high, and volcanic, Anegada is a reef Island (Like the Bahamas). Maximum height above sea-level is 15'. The surrounding reefs extend out in all directions and have captured over 300 ships over the years. These wrecks make Anegada a divers paradise. In the old days (just 10 years or so ago) before GPS and navigation markers it was tricky approaching. You had to line up certain trees with certain red roofs and read the colors of the water. (You still need a special exception, or to hire a guide if you don't have a professional captain aboard.) 

As you sail out from Gorda Sound, you'll be looking back at the mountainess Islands you've just left and it will seem like you could throw a stone and hit the closest Island. At about this time, after an hour or so of sailing, the winner of the quarter will see the first Palm tree growing up out of the Atlantic. This will soon be joined by more and a house--all with no apparent land which is still under the curvature of the earth (below the sea!) Gradually the dots will connect. Land will appear right where the GPS says it should and you'll see one of the new welcoming buoys bouncing merrily in the channel. 

You'll zig and zag. Sail over coral. You'll swear you could reach down and touch the coral which appears to be within reach, but you'll still be in 8-10' of water. Eventually you'll round into the small inner harbor and pick up your mooring. You've arrived! 

Everyone will want to rush ashore. Don't forget the snorkel and beach gear. If any of your party wants to do serious diving, they should have made arrangements ahead of time with Lowell, the congenial owner of the resort you're visiting--or with the concierge at the Bitter End.  

Make reservations for grilled lobster on the beach tonight. Grab a rum punch at the Honor bar and then pile  into a beach cab for a jolting overland ride past Flamingos and cows. Flowers and cactus. Passing ponds and scrub cactus, bouncing over ruts and dodging serious pits. Dirt roads turn into a paved stretch which stars and then inexplicably ends dumping you unceremoniously back onto a dirt road again as you head for Loblolly bay at the far end of the Island.

There's no way to describe it. The cab parks and you hear the surf from the distance off behind the dunes. You ascend the first dune and it's breathtaking. The beach stretches out as far as the eye can see in both directions backed by sand dunes. You would think you were on Nantucket Island in New England except for the colors and the warmth, and the strong sea breeze cooling your skin. 

No pictures could do this beach justice, so I won't even try. Now the day is full of choices. Walk barefoot down the beach in either direction. After the first 3 minutes you're not likely to see a soul for the next hour or so until you return. The coral twists in to the beach at spots forming warm "Jacuzzi" pools. Hot tubs, where you can skinny dip with confidence. Rediscover your soul mate. Find a ship wreck on the shore. (We did one year!) or the flotsam and jetsam that naturally accumulates on a leeward beach 1,000's of miles from the next land--Africa to the East. This is the place in the Ocean where, in summer,  Hurricanes brew. But not now. Now you luxuriate in the tropic breezes. Inhale the pure, fraquent air. Listen to the waves crashing on the reef that surrounds your own private world of beach and pink coral sand. 

Swim out from the powder fine sandy beach of pink and white ground shells. Slip into the depths with your snorkel gear to see a new breathtaking world. With each stroke a new marvel of coral and reef fish. Some larger than you've seen anywhere else--but friendly--all. You can swim down between mountainous coral and between elkhorn coral branches, or just circumvent the edge. 

When you return everyone will be giddy and regaling about the big fish and bigger coral; about the colors and the currents that gently swayed the fan coral making them appear to be gently fanning the sea. 

As you lay on the Beach, you'll find yourself contemplating the big issues--love, adventure, what's really important? Wander up for a Heineken at the beach bar behind the main part of the beach (a 100 yard or so stretch). 

In the middle of your reverie, and long before you're ready, your cab will arrive to take you back. Some will visit the gift shop while others continue their story telling at the beach bar, or lounge in the beach chairs watching the sun drop into the Sea to the West. Everyone usually gathers just before sunset to watch for the famous Green Flash, said to be a phenomenon caused by the sun-light refraction through the emerald green water at the meeting with the sun's top most crest. Walk down the rickety dock to see the lobster pens and the lobsters being prepared for dinner. As soon as the chance to see the Green Flash is over, everyone heads back to the boat for a shower and the gals always try on their new tropical sarongs for dinner...

As each person finishes showering and comes up to the cockpit sipping their drink, they'll be greeted by roaring beach fires of drift wood on the beach. These are the fires under the home built barbecue drums, cut up oil drums actually, which serve as beach barbecues to barbecue the tasty lobsters yet to come. 

You'll arrive back at the beach bar to see final preparations as the hostesses set up the beach tables  with linen and candles. 

If you haven't had barbecue lobster with Lowell's special sauce, well, as they say, you haven't had lobster! For many of us, this makes the whole trip. Dinner is accompanied by home made family style vegetables and desert. 

After dinner and wine, we always get into a challenge match of Bochie ball with a crew of another boat. You draw a line in the sand, put a life ring about 15' away, and toss lobster floats which you hold onto by their buoy rings. Some people seem to be naturals. One ball knocks another away. Losers buy winners drinks. Everyone knows everyone and no one wants to leave. The bar is left open and you help yourself (The Honor Bar, remember?) Finally. Reluctantly, you wobble back down the dock to the tender and back to the boat. You probably won't remember the rest of this night well. 

Your captain will get underway shortly after dawn while everyone's still sleeping. As you poke your head out into the dawn, you're at sea with the big Islands looming in the foreground, and Anegada fading off the stern. This is often a rollicking, fun, downwind, fast sail back past all of the Islands you've missed. Interesting sounding Islands like  Prickly Pear, and Necker. Cooper and Ginger. You'll swoop past Tortola heading down Drake's passage for St. Johns. 

If you've left early enough, there may be time for a quick stop at Norman Island to visit the Caves. Norman is the Island that Cooper used as the model for the famous story of Treasure Island. It's said that Pirates really did bury gold in the caves there. And in the bars around Tortola, late at night I've heard scruffy looking wharf folks talk about this or that tourist finding a Gold Doubloon--totally by accident. "It just washed away from the mountain side after all these years and dumb luck brought him to the cave floor just at the right time." Be sure to keep your eyes peeled if you're diving there.

Soon, you'll be slipping past one beautiful beach after another as you slide down the coast of St. Johns heading back for St. Thomas. As you look wistfully back, you'll be planning your next trip. Maybe longer next time?

The Virgin islands, the most popular sailing destination in the world and still mostly untouched because you can only get to most of these marvelous spots by private Yacht. Cruise ships can't make it here. Enjoy...

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