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Equipment manual for SailScape Boats...
- Knots The basics of rope technology!
- Docking and maneuvering Using spring lines, planning ahead. We want you to look good and be comfortable!
- Electrical and Electronics--including navigation.
- The basic equipment
- Engine (Diesels)
- Propane Stoves
- Heads
- Plumbing
- Refrigeration
- Anchoring & Windlass
- Electronics/Electrical--Basics.
- Sailing tips.
Diesels
Diesel Engines
What you need to know...
- Always make sure you get Diesel fuel. (Not gas!)
- For planning purposes, figure that you will burn about 1 gal/hr. per engine. Keep track of hours as well as fuel gage. Fuel Gages are notoriously inaccurate!
- Diesels prefer to be run hard. The best cruising speed is to find the top RPM (say it's 3400) then back off about 10-15%. So in this example, run at about 3,000 RPM.
- Most common problem is overheating or air locks.
- For overheating, check for water flow out of the exhaust. If none, Turn off the engine, check the water reserve tank (be careful--use a towel and allow as much cool down time as possible, this is much like a car radiator.) If you add water, add hot water if possible so you don't risk cracking something with the temperature variations.) Check the fan belt.
- Sometimes by allowing the boat to stop, whatever is clogging the intake will fall off (without the suction) and the engine will be o.k. Allow it to cool down for 5-10 minutes, then see if it will run at a medium speed for a while, then gradually increase speed. Also, sometimes if you run at too high an RPM when it's hot out, this will cause a problem. After cool down, try running at reduced RPM and then gradually increase to 85-90% of max RPM. If still nothing, depending on your experience, check the water pump impeller or call for help.
- For air locks. Especially if fuel gets low, follow the bleeding procedure. Usually this is simple and you only need to bleed the first point. You may need to do this repeatedly if fuel is low until you get to a fuel dock.
- Depending on the length of your charter, check all fluid levels. Remember, you're responsible if you run the engine with low oil, etc.
Stoves
Propane Stoves
What you need to know...
- You normally have a reserve propane tank and so can switch if you run out.
- There is an electronic fuel shut off that needs to be on. (it has a red light and, in most cases a fume stiffer--if the stiffer alarm goes off--turn off all fires immediately and find the cause.
- There is an emergency valve in one of the lockers near the stove. Find it. Make sure it's open.
- Finally, there is a safety feature common to all propane stove. When you turn on the burner, you need to push and hold the knob in until the burner pre-heats. This is a safety feature. If the fire blows out, (the sensor cools down as it is when you first light the stove) the gas flow is turned off at the burner. To relight, simply start the procedure over again. NOTE: Open ports in the vicinity of the stove sometimes blows out the fire.
- Be sure you know where the closest fire extinguisher to the stove is.
Heads
Heads
What you need to know...
- Generally all of the heads are manual. In U.S. waters, they're hooked to a holding tank on board. In the Caribbean, there's a "Y" Valve and you can pump overboard. In the Caribbean, do not use the holding tank unless you're sure there is a manual overboard discharge capability because there are no pump out facilities.
- Don't put anything you haven't eaten first into the head, other than toilet tissue--no paper towels or feminine products.
- If the pump gets sticky or inefficient, try putting a capful of mineral (or cooking oil) in the head and flush it through. (This lubricates the rubber parts.)
- To keep smells down, get some of the blue chemical, when you go shopping, for the holding tank. Also, a capful of bleach in the bowl at the end of the day, with a little bit pumped into the hoses--helps tremendously!
- You can blow up a holding tank by over pumping when it's full!
- If the head is totally clogged, don't try to force pump it. Either go overboard with a snorkel and try working a long shanked screw driver up into the exhaust--almost always the problem is tissue stuck in the valve. If this doesn't work use a different head or call for help. (This can be done from inside the boat by shutting the valve, disconnecting the hose and then cleaning out from the inside--messy but effective. If you' can't shut the valve because of the clog--don't try this!!!)
Plumbing
Plumbing
What you need to know...
- Locate the pressure water pump. (By sound or with your check in person.) The pump turns on at the electrical panel and also has an integral circuit breaker. If it was working properly and now doesn't pump at all--locate the reset button on the pump and re-set it after allowing 15 min. or so for the pump to cool down.
- If the pump is constantly recycling--probably, someone left a faucet dripping. Check them all. If it still is, check for system leaks.
- Drains thru hulls are located pretty close to the drains, generally under counters, etc. If a sink gets plugged try creating a breaking suction with wet paper towels pumped up and down over the drain. (Making sure the thru hull is open.) If this doesn't do it, you may have to pull a hose clamp and blow through the hose to free the clog. Remember, these hoses have a narrower diameter than at home. Avoid bulky waste and/or keep the strainers in the sinks.
- Shower sumps. Generally these have strainers in line. The switch is on the panel, and then there is a push and hold switch (in most cases) in the head. If you hear the pump running, but the water isn't going out--check the strainer and clean it out. (Hair is usually the problem.)
- Be sure you know how to run the electric bilge pumps and know where the manual pumps and handles are located.
Refrigeration
Refrigeration
What you need to know...
- Generally, we have engine driven compressors running the refrigeration. These are very efficient systems. (If this isn't what you have, get your check out person to explain.)
- To run, the engine has to be running, and should be running at a high idle (approx 1,000 to 1,200 RPM)
- Turn the electrical panel switch on, and then turn the timer on to 45 min to an hour, or for whatever time the engine will be running up to an hour.
- Depending on the ambient temperature and how often you go in and out, plan to run the refrigeration a cumulative hour to an hour and a half a day in order to keep it cold.
- Stuff placed against the cold plates may freeze--pack accordingly.
Delta Type Anchor
Anchoring and Windlass
What you need to know...
- Virtually all of our boats have windlasses and use chain. The Delta anchor is generally the primary anchor and has been proven to be the most effective in the widest variety of conditions. Combined with the chain, it's an effective system.
- Locate your second, emergency anchor which is a high holding, Force 10 type which has been proven to have, perhaps, the highest straight line holding strength of any system. This anchor will have mostly nylon line which stretches and helps to keep the anchor from breaking free--we rely on the superior holding strength of the anchor to keep it set.
- Using the Windlass: The engine must be on. There is a safety connected through the Oil pressure switch (usually on the port engine on cats.) Make sure the circuit breaker on the panel, near the batteries and in the anchor locker are all on. (They're normally all on, but once in a while a previous guest turns something off.)
- These windlasses are generally two way windlasses--you can generally electrically lower the anchor, or release the clutch and let it go (fast-be careful!). When taking the chain in, the chain will often pile up under the capstan. Use the handle to distribute it periodically down to the bottom of the locker. Keep your fingers away from the windlass when it's working.
- When the anchor is in, secure it with the provided line (Don't totally rely on the windlass clutch to hold.). If you don't, and the clutch slips, the anchor could fly out while you're sailing creating a dangerous situation.
Anchoring tips...
Go to our Docking, Anchoring and Maneuvering page.
Electronics
Electronics
VHF Radio--Go here to get a list of the way to use the radio frequencies.
Auto-Pilot--There are some features that you may not be aware of. Some of these work differently on different units, but generally we have AutoHelm autopilots on all of our Catamarans and larger monohulls.
- Basically, you use the standby or Autopilot control. When you put the autopilot on normally, it is steering to the compass course in existence at the time you activated the unit.
- If you want to steer to the wind vane, you can hit both the Standby and Autopilot button simultaneously and you will get a message that you are steering by the vane. The default warning sounds if the boat goes more than 10 degrees off course.
- To tack the boat by yourself, using the autopilot. Come up hard on the wind, then push the two left or right +1 and +10 buttons simultaneously and the boat will turn smoothly through 100 degrees. This normally allows you to comfortably release one Jib sheet, and take in the others.
Speedometer...
If the boat sits, sometimes for even a day or two in the summer, you may need to pull and clean the paddle wheel. It looks scary, but actually you simply have the plug at hand when you pull the transducer and swap them. You will get less than a quart of water in the boat generally so don't worry about it. Clean the transducer with a knife, paper towels, etc. until it spins freely.
GPS-Each boat has it's own version and they vary too much to talk about here.
Interface with your computer and navigation suite. We are going to standardize plugs for SailScape members so they can plug into the on-board instruments--watch for details. For a program, we have had consistent raves about the MapTech product.
More information on most of the Autohelm (Raytheon) electronics aboard most of our boats, go to: http://www.autohelm.com/
More info. to follow.
Electrical Systems
Electrical Systems
Generally you'll find:
A control switch to switch between the 2 banks of battery systems so that if you kill the batteries on one bank, you can bring in the others for, among other things--starting the engine. Pay close attention to your check out person on this subject!
You will have a 30 Amp plug for dockside power. The boats also, generally have a battery charger and inverter. A couple of notes. Always turn the battery charger on when you are at the dock and plugged in. If you use the inverter, be aware that it devours batteries at a ferocious rate for major appliances (like hair dryers, irons, etc.) If you use it for computers or to recharge batteries you should be fine. When you're running heavy loads--run the engines to keep up with the drain.
More tips to follow.
Sailing Tips
Sailing Tips...
Please pay attention to your Check out person's instructions for when to reef.
More tips to follow.
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Eric Smith, Owner, Bay Yacht Agency / SailScape
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