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> Should you even have teak decks...

>  What to use where
> Outside, Decks- natural.
> VARNISH
> VARNISH MAINTENANCE
> Varnish repairs…
> OIL FINISH, INTERIOR ONLY!
>

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 Brightwork : The Art of Finishing Wood

The best book on oil and varnish finishing I have ever seen! Believe and follow Rebecca's formula for success. She is the one other professionals go to for advice. Rated 5 stars!

Should you have teak decks...

They're beautiful, when properly maintained. They offer, perhaps, the best non-skid surface, wet or dry, known to man. Maintenance is expensive. It could easily run to several thousand extra dollars per year for maintenance alone (when combined with varnished trim, especially.) 

The downside? 

1. Expense and high maintenance--more on this below.

2. Compared to a white deck, they're hot as you go South. Generally from about the Chesapeake, South you will find most boat owners don't opt for teak. 

If you're going to do it, there is truly only one way...

What to use where…

INSIDE:  Your choice of oiling, or varnish.

OUTSIDE, DECKS: natural.  No Oil.

OUTSIDE TRIM (cap rails, handrails, etc.)  Varnish or Teak-Fix.

PRODUCTS:

• Restoring raw teak, previously oiled or natural- not varnished
1. Badly mildewed or oiled.  Te-Ka A&B.  (Buy extra neutralizer)
2. Light to moderately weathered (not oiled).  Teak Wonder (use neutralizer!)
• Varnish.
1. Interlux #96 Schooner.  Exterior: gloss, high in ultra-violet protection.  Minimum, 8 coats.
2. Interlux #60 Rubbed effect.  For interiors- also cabin soles.
3. #97 Inter-Poly clear.  Cabin soles.  8 coats for gloss finish, or build first coats with this, finish with #60 for rubbed effect. 

• Teak-Fix Water based, for trim
• Oil, for interior only!  Tung oil formula- you pick.
• Masking tape.
1. #2040 Scotch.  For one coat varnish.  MUST REMOVE SAME DAY.
2. #256 SCOTCHMARK GREEN.  For General Purpose Adhesive Remover (office supply) safe on all surfaces.
3. Screwed up? 3M, General Purpose Adhesive Remover (office supply) safe on all surfaces.

• 3M tile scrubbing pad for bleaching and cleaning, white pad only!  For maintenance 3M’s Doodlebug Pad Holder for swabbing- only use white pad-get extras.
• TSP.  Trisodium Phosphate.  For cleaning natural teak, mildew prevention (hardware store.)
• LEMON JOY.  Clean decks.  Mixes with salt water.
• Pepsodent, soft tooth brushes for corners- bleaching.

Miraculous Claims…

If a can of something calls out to you seductively with claims of being: revolutionary, a breakthrough, never peels, fades or cracks for a year- forget it.  When was the last time you won the lottery?  There is no easy path to fame and fortune.  These products are designed to tempt greedy (seduced by the easy path) amateurs and put money in the pockets of their promoters.  You’ll spend the same amount of money- twice.  (And do extra work.) Once to put it on.  Once to take it off, and redo it- right.  Stick to proven products and techniques that work.  Do it right the firs time, and then stick tour easy maintenance schedule.

Outside, Decks- natural.

Rule one.  Never oil.

Rule 2-10, NEVER OIL! (Or use miracle products on decks!) One exception for trim--there is an alternative to varnish. This is the new waterbased products like: Teak Fix--less work, and gives a satin teak finish--use only on trim, not on teak decks or cockpit soles. See further notes.. Click on link to order and for instructions.

STEP 1, Analysis.

How bad is it?  If you stand on the deck and shout your boats name and it yodels back at you from the craters in the grain- if it’s black and gray, instead of clean and silver- go to step 2. Otherwise, go to step 3

STEP 2, sanding.

If the black caulking is welled up in the cracks.  Get single edged razor blades, bend slightly in the center and run the concave blade under the caulking- pulling it toward you.  (Wrap band-aids on your forefinger knuckles to protect them rubbing against the deck). Don’t be cheap.  Exchange blade every 10-15 minutes.  Give prizes to whoever removes longest continuous strip.  Sand the deck before cleaning to get the grain smooth, Use an electric, orbital sander and start with 50 Grit.  Work your way through 80 then 120 Grit.  Vacuum dust regularly.  Change paper as required.  Mask off fiberglass with appropriate masking tape to protect.  WARNING: If the teak is so cratered that the level of wood gets below the black caulking and is still not smooth—you may need to trim the caulk with razor blades again!  When smooth…

STEP 3, cleaning.

Once your teak is conditioned (step 2), this process will only be required periodically, as required.  Regular maintenance, Step 4 will suffice between.  If really black, use Te-Ka A & B.  Otherwise, Teak Wonder (the brightener is not optional- use it).  Follow directions.  VITAL NOTE:  If there is any kind of anodized surface that the (Te Ka) cleaner will touch, cover tightly with tape and plastic, remove from the boat, or coat generously with carnauba wax!  The cleaner will pit it beyond repair!  Do not use any kind of bristle brush.  Scrub with a soft nylon tile scrubber in a circular pattern (use only white not blue or brown- available with handle-3M).  TEAK WONDER- Scrub to a lather, let sit.  Go on to a new area scrubbed 3 times to a lather.  Leave foam sit, do not rinse.  On a hot day, mist to keep wet.  After section (portside, for example) is done, rinse off thoroughly.  Never use high-pressure hose- easy, light spray.  This bleaching process invariable raises the grain and you must sand the grain after drying (allow minimum of one day!) to remove the fuzz.  IF you don’t, rain and dirt will sit in the pores and promote mildewing- the reason you bleached in the first place!  Te Ka- do not leave on for more than 5 minutes apply & rinse.  Follow directions.  Properly prepared.  Teak deck will weather to a beautiful, smooth, silvery patina.  An ideal compliment to…

VARNISH: 

Exterior teak trim, cap rails, etc. One exception to varnish for trim--there is an alternative to varnish. This is the new water based products like: Teak Fix--less work, and gives a satin teak finish--use only on trim, not on teak decks or cockpit soles. See further notes.. Click on link to order and for instructions.

Varnish: (Exterior teak trim, cap rails, etc.  Provides contrast with silvery teak decks for a Yacht look)

Step 1: ANALYSIS.

If there’s old varnish, strip first with chemical stripper.  Sand smooth.  See instructions for oiling.  Finish with 220 Grit.  Vacuum thoroughly.  Wipe down with a rag soaked with mineral spirits.  Mask all edges.  Plan 3 maskings during a full 8 coat application.  (to get clean edges.)

1. Sealer.

Note:  Follow directions for oiling interior teak for sealing teak—start with 2 coats oil, finish 3^rd coat and sand in oil with paste, etc. to fill grain (see p.3 for oil steps one-five.  Now, USE FOAM BRUSHES.  FILTER VARNISH INTO A PAPER CONTAINER.

2. Thin first coat 15 % with mineral spirits.  Apply against the grain until the brush is almost dry then lightly brush with the grain.
3. Sand lightly 220- just enough to scratch the surface and see where you’re going with the second coat.
4. Second coat thin 10%.  Applied as in step 1.
5. Sand with 22
6. Apply third coat with a capful of brushing liquid per 8 ounces as weather dictates.
7. Sand w/ 220.
8. Apply 4^th coat full strength w/ brushing liquid as necessary for weather.
9. Sand heavily with 220 to plane down ridges built up (use sanding pad, or electric sander carefully.)  Do not break through the seal now created, though.
10. 5^th- 8^th coats like 4^th except sand with 320 by hand only- moderated, but fine scratch evident.
11. 9^th and 10^th coats optional.  First 3 varnish coats can be applied on successive days- sanding the day after application.  Each coat thereafter needs a full day of curing between coats (one day off before sanding.)  Each of last 3 coats 2 day between sanding for proper curing.

CABIN SOLES.  Follow the same procedure.  Be careful sanding, if veneer.  See types of varnish to choose finished look.

Scrape runs with razor blade, or use Pintoff 299 on non-skid areas.  You ruin the professional effect if you don’t!  Now find a friend.  Get a bottle of champagne and toast you fine work.  Following the prescribed maintenance schedule, this can easily last 5 years or more!

MAINTENANCE…

General, twice a month…

·         Teak decks.  Lemon Joy with salt water.  (Lemon Joy in only soap that works with salt water!)  If full strength salt water (like Chesapeake Bay or fresh water) not available (you’re not at sea?), use 2 tablespoons per bucket of TSP (Trisodium phosphate- available at hardware stores)-with a dab of bleach-- this bleaches teak and kills mildew.  Use doodlebug (long handled, tool with WHITE 3M pad) or other soft nylon pads scrubbing cross grain or use circular motion; or use cellulose sponge; or string mop.  (DO NOT USE THE 3M PAD ON FIBERGLASS--ONLY TEAK!) Spot (potato chip/ sun tan lotion type) stains?  Use dry cleaner K2R, or oxalic acid solution with minimum scrubbing- let chemicals do the job!

·         Lifelines or vinyl (fenders).  Softscrub.  If really bad, mineral spirits or lacquer thinner- be conservative, it can melt plastic. 

·         S.S. Metal polish. “Brite Boy” or “Liberty” polish.

·         Varnish.  Rinse well with fresh water.  Dry with white cotton clothes or chamois.

VARNISH MAINTENANCE

• Always rinse off salt water upon return (Salt water dries crystalline: crystals magnify sun and degrade varnish.) Avoid sop- fresh water only.  Chamois dry.
• Full boat covers for winter, and individual covers for hatches etc. help.
• Refresher schedule- approx. twice a year.  If you don’t do it, get your help to agree to do it your way!
1. Clean.  Use Murphy’s oil soap.  Rinse thoroughly.  Wipe with white cloth using 3 parts denatured alcohol/ one part water.  (If any chance of silicon polish or wax introduced to finish since original application, wash with xylene- or tubal based solvent.)
2. Sand with 320, lightly, wipe down with mineral spirits and mask.  Apply 2 coats.  One drying day between.

Teak Fix--generally twice a year. Light sanding. Very easy re-application and repairs to damaged surface.

REPAIRS…

“Scratch and Patch”; dings, broker joints, etc.  Often a preliminary step to refreshing.  Joint, if caught early (no yellowing, peeling) mask off sand lightly and squish varnish into the joint to reestablish the seal.  Do in several coats before final refresher coats.  If finish is yellow/blistering.  Use a sharp, hook scraper and strip off.  If necessary, re-bleach dark spots with teak wonder.  Allow to dry thoroughly.  Use 120-150 paper follow with 220.  Re-seal as before and repeat all 8 coats build up; bur make a jet speed version of regular varnish by diluting with 25% of companion, fast drying solvent for 2 coats; 4 hours a part; then use regular procedure with one coat per day, 2220 paper sand between.  When patch is level with surrounding.  Apply refresher coats overall. 

OIL FINISH, INTERIOR ONLY!

If you must... The velvety smooth, rubbed oiled look is what we’re after.

1. Prepare wood as for varnish up to finish stages of sanding.
2. Mask around all brightwork areas.
3. With foam brush, paint first coat- be conservative.  Allow to soak in until dry to the touch- about 20 min.
4. Repeat with a second coat.  At least 1 hour to dry.
5. Apply 3^rd coat to a manageable section.  Allow to dry for a couple of minutes then sand in with 400 grit wet-or-dry paper (with grain), until the mixture of oil and sawdust becomes a difficult paste.  Change sandpaper often.  Allow paste to sit until tacky 3-5 min.  Then buff off with clean white rag in circular motion taking care not to rub paste out of wood grain.  STOP HERE IF VARNISH IS TO FOLLOW—SEE VARNISH!  Allow an hour between then a penetrating coat- allow to dry 30 min.  After 4^th coat apply a fifth and wet sand except use 600 grit paper.  Again buff off residue in circular motion.  (If it gets too dry, add a little oil to re-moisten.)  Linger around for an hour.  IF shiny bleed back spots appear, buff out again with fresh, clean, white rag.  MAINTENANCE: Perhaps one a year or so, rub in oil with bronze wool.  One coat- then buff with rag.  This is a beautiful, natural feeling, oil treatment.  Well worth the effort in a glowing evening oil lamp or sunset.

Risk any short cut at your peril.  Want to know more?  Buy BRIGHTWORK by Rebecca Wittman right from our site:  Brightwork : The Art of Finishing Wood The best book on oil and varnish finishing I have ever seen! Believe and follow Rebecca's formula for success. She is the one other professionals go to for advice. Rated 5 stars!.

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